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mini usb powered tiffany lamp
by：ShunXinda
2019-09-01
(
Note: draw gently with a pencil, be careful not to get the surface of the ball too dirty with a pencil. )
First draw a line around the equator of the ball.
Seam-oriented.
Then draw a straight line from the North Pole and meet the equator in the fourth quarter so you have four equal parts.
Now, further divide the pieces into three small pieces of equal size so you have 12 pieces.
About 2 to 3mm below the equator line, draw another line on the circumference.
Draw a series of vertical lines that align with the end of the line segment between this line and the equator.
Draw a small scallop circle under the lower perimeter cord, aligned with a small vertical line.
About 10mm down from the North Pole, draw two concentric circles.
Draw the coca. Cola logo.
I use reference photos and a Coke can as a guide, but now that I have painted them, you can also download them from the Dada Tiffany light project if you wish.
I simplified the logo mainly because the size is small and the complexity is a limitation of my skills and equipment. (
I did this for my kids while staying at someone else\'s house on vacation, so I don\'t have much equipment.
Carefully color with color permanent marks or OHP marks in the design to ensure that the cola part remains White.
Of course, you don\'t need to make a Coke logo, you can either write someone\'s name to personalize it or copy another famous fixture design from Tiffany.
Don\'t worry if the color is a bit striped, the real stained glass looks like this, it\'s not a uniform color at all.
The photo is on the back of the lampshade.
You will notice that the logo looks a bit different from what was done.
When I drew the logo in front, I didn\'t leave enough space to complete the second full logo, so I squeezed the logo in the back a little and removed the break between Coca-Cola and Coke
After I have outlined the logo in black in front, I took this photo to show the coloring phase.
Anyway, this gives you a good idea of the beginning of naff.
It only starts to look cool when you line up in the next step.
Finally, when leaving the white error on one side more than less.
At this scale, the black line will take up quite a bit of space, so you need more white than you think, which means the letter must be a little simpler than it is in reality.
I remember that it was not perfect. it was made of glass fragments left over from the Tiffany window project.
That\'s why it looks so natural and each one is so primitive. Using a thin (
The thinner the better)
Permanent Black marking line in lead cames (
Well, that\'s what they call the lead light).
I found a embossed pen at a local craft store that didn\'t leave a deep relief but did leave a pretty believable effect.
Please note that a nice black marker will be easy to get the job done and the embossed pen did try a bit. . .
This is my second attempt after my first slightly screwed up.
Please note that I have drawn lines on the white area to break down the letters.
In real life, the light is made of stained glass, and if you try to break the glass, you will know that you have to be a genius to get the curved pieces.
Well, they broke the glass very intelligently, but they still split it into manageable parts and stitched it together with copper or lead strips, so that\'s the real look you want.
Carefully cut the lampshade with a sharp nail clipper.
Use a craft knife to cut a very small slot on the top of the shade, about 1mm wide and 2mm long in the Arctic. The base needs a little weight and looks good, even metal, better than a few small coins.
They are the perfect size and the weight to stick together is as big as they need.
I use euro, I have no other use in the UK, but you can use anything, although I suggest your dad\'s gold sovereignty, or the priceless medal that your uncles collect should not be allowed.
Stick them together with super glue (cyanoacrylate)(
Super glue is very careful because it will stick to the skin permanently and immediately (
It is designed as tissue glue).
I like it because it is fast (
Faster if you use an accelerator)
But you can use two parts of the epoxy resin, especially the material that is rapidly solidified for 90 seconds.
Make sure the coins are concentric and all centers are correct.
Once they stick together, color them with a permanent mark, spray or apply black.
Then use very fine sandpaper or preferably wet and dry sandpaper to get down a bit from the corner. I used p600.
Finally, I drilled a small hole in the top of the coin at the top and gave me something to glue that I was going to use to connect the rod (see next step)
For the stem, I used ferule (
Yes, that\'s the name of it)
Brushes from artists
The best thing about the metal end of the paint brush is that its size is perfect, it has some nice little features, when the handle and bristles are removed, it is a hollow tube that is very thin and gradually thinner. . .
That\'s what you need.
Bristles are harder than I thought.
Before you pick up the handle, extend the metal Ferrer by about half with pliers, and the lower jaw on the pliers is wrapped in a kitchen cloth (
Avoid scratch metal)
Grab the bristles with another pair of pliers and pull out the bristles hard.
You may need to pull the bristles back and forth several times to get them all out.
When the bristles come out, try to pull the hands out.
Or the better thing is to see or break it on feule and drill it several times with a drill bit on both ends to the wooden handle until you can pull out the scrap.
Once ferule is empty, the use of pliers opens a small part at a wider end.
This will accommodate the wires from the LED in a few steps.
Take a very cheap mini usb led pc light and cut off the plug as close to the plug as possible with pliers.
Slide the lens off the other end of the lamp and release the LED that is still connected to the wire (
It will also have a tiny resistor welded together with one of the wires.
Keep the lens and USB plug on one side.
You can throw away the elastic sheath on the outside or keep it for another item.
Expand a medium-sized paper clip and bend it into a hexagon with a thin pointed head in one corner and two tails in the other.
According to the size in the drawing (
Used as a guide only)
Or download the curved template in the Dada Tiffany light project.
If you have small pliers, use it, place the clip firmly where you want to bend, and slowly bend the clip into shape.
It\'s really helpful if you mark the bend before you start.
Excessive bending of the paper clip will fatigue the metal and will break.
Fortunately, this step is fast and the paper clip is cheap, so start over if it breaks this step.
Poke the LED wire off the feule from the thin end and gently pass through.
Insert the lampshade support frame and arrange it so that the LED sits well in the middle of the frame.
Hold the stem, frame and LED with a piece of tissue (Will get hot)
Spray some hot melt in the stem to fix them.
Before setting, make sure that the wires are covered at the edge of the bottom of the stem, where you can make small indents.
Trim off the excess glue and make sure you don\'t cut off the wires by mistake.
Stick the stem to the base of the coin.
I used Super Glue again here, but you can also use two parts of epoxy easily.
Separate the plug from one side and peel it off the metal plug-in.
Remove any rubber drill bit and remove the internal plastic housing of the plug.
You will most likely take the wire apart, but don\'t worry, you will re-weld the wire.
Use the chart to show you the pins that weld the red and black pins.
When you put the metal case back into the pan for assembly, re-assemble the plug using some molten material, then slide the rubber outside into the metal plug case and use super glue (
This is good and the plug rubber is perfectly glued.
Fill the plug with a little bit of hot melt to make the plug fully open.
Trim any glue squeezed out and cover any white super glue residue on the USB plug seam using a black mark.
All that\'s left to do is put the curtains down and plug them in.
The extra finishing work is to twist the wire to make it neat or twist the wire and spray it in black or brown to get a real look.
The wires are thin and look really right.
I also made a can of mini Coke because I wanted to copy the reference photo.
There is a Dada Cano project that has instructions and label printing tables that can be found in the micro tin tank project.
The light looks very beautiful and weighs a lot.
Next, I think I\'m going to make a Chinese lantern shade with thin strips of bamboo and paper towels to fit into this lamp set so I can change the lampshade when I like it, but I have to say, I think of all kinds of miniature fashionable lampshades.
Anyway, good luck and have a good time doing this little project.
Note: draw gently with a pencil, be careful not to get the surface of the ball too dirty with a pencil. )
First draw a line around the equator of the ball.
Seam-oriented.
Then draw a straight line from the North Pole and meet the equator in the fourth quarter so you have four equal parts.
Now, further divide the pieces into three small pieces of equal size so you have 12 pieces.
About 2 to 3mm below the equator line, draw another line on the circumference.
Draw a series of vertical lines that align with the end of the line segment between this line and the equator.
Draw a small scallop circle under the lower perimeter cord, aligned with a small vertical line.
About 10mm down from the North Pole, draw two concentric circles.
Draw the coca. Cola logo.
I use reference photos and a Coke can as a guide, but now that I have painted them, you can also download them from the Dada Tiffany light project if you wish.
I simplified the logo mainly because the size is small and the complexity is a limitation of my skills and equipment. (
I did this for my kids while staying at someone else\'s house on vacation, so I don\'t have much equipment.
Carefully color with color permanent marks or OHP marks in the design to ensure that the cola part remains White.
Of course, you don\'t need to make a Coke logo, you can either write someone\'s name to personalize it or copy another famous fixture design from Tiffany.
Don\'t worry if the color is a bit striped, the real stained glass looks like this, it\'s not a uniform color at all.
The photo is on the back of the lampshade.
You will notice that the logo looks a bit different from what was done.
When I drew the logo in front, I didn\'t leave enough space to complete the second full logo, so I squeezed the logo in the back a little and removed the break between Coca-Cola and Coke
After I have outlined the logo in black in front, I took this photo to show the coloring phase.
Anyway, this gives you a good idea of the beginning of naff.
It only starts to look cool when you line up in the next step.
Finally, when leaving the white error on one side more than less.
At this scale, the black line will take up quite a bit of space, so you need more white than you think, which means the letter must be a little simpler than it is in reality.
I remember that it was not perfect. it was made of glass fragments left over from the Tiffany window project.
That\'s why it looks so natural and each one is so primitive. Using a thin (
The thinner the better)
Permanent Black marking line in lead cames (
Well, that\'s what they call the lead light).
I found a embossed pen at a local craft store that didn\'t leave a deep relief but did leave a pretty believable effect.
Please note that a nice black marker will be easy to get the job done and the embossed pen did try a bit. . .
This is my second attempt after my first slightly screwed up.
Please note that I have drawn lines on the white area to break down the letters.
In real life, the light is made of stained glass, and if you try to break the glass, you will know that you have to be a genius to get the curved pieces.
Well, they broke the glass very intelligently, but they still split it into manageable parts and stitched it together with copper or lead strips, so that\'s the real look you want.
Carefully cut the lampshade with a sharp nail clipper.
Use a craft knife to cut a very small slot on the top of the shade, about 1mm wide and 2mm long in the Arctic. The base needs a little weight and looks good, even metal, better than a few small coins.
They are the perfect size and the weight to stick together is as big as they need.
I use euro, I have no other use in the UK, but you can use anything, although I suggest your dad\'s gold sovereignty, or the priceless medal that your uncles collect should not be allowed.
Stick them together with super glue (cyanoacrylate)(
Super glue is very careful because it will stick to the skin permanently and immediately (
It is designed as tissue glue).
I like it because it is fast (
Faster if you use an accelerator)
But you can use two parts of the epoxy resin, especially the material that is rapidly solidified for 90 seconds.
Make sure the coins are concentric and all centers are correct.
Once they stick together, color them with a permanent mark, spray or apply black.
Then use very fine sandpaper or preferably wet and dry sandpaper to get down a bit from the corner. I used p600.
Finally, I drilled a small hole in the top of the coin at the top and gave me something to glue that I was going to use to connect the rod (see next step)
For the stem, I used ferule (
Yes, that\'s the name of it)
Brushes from artists
The best thing about the metal end of the paint brush is that its size is perfect, it has some nice little features, when the handle and bristles are removed, it is a hollow tube that is very thin and gradually thinner. . .
That\'s what you need.
Bristles are harder than I thought.
Before you pick up the handle, extend the metal Ferrer by about half with pliers, and the lower jaw on the pliers is wrapped in a kitchen cloth (
Avoid scratch metal)
Grab the bristles with another pair of pliers and pull out the bristles hard.
You may need to pull the bristles back and forth several times to get them all out.
When the bristles come out, try to pull the hands out.
Or the better thing is to see or break it on feule and drill it several times with a drill bit on both ends to the wooden handle until you can pull out the scrap.
Once ferule is empty, the use of pliers opens a small part at a wider end.
This will accommodate the wires from the LED in a few steps.
Take a very cheap mini usb led pc light and cut off the plug as close to the plug as possible with pliers.
Slide the lens off the other end of the lamp and release the LED that is still connected to the wire (
It will also have a tiny resistor welded together with one of the wires.
Keep the lens and USB plug on one side.
You can throw away the elastic sheath on the outside or keep it for another item.
Expand a medium-sized paper clip and bend it into a hexagon with a thin pointed head in one corner and two tails in the other.
According to the size in the drawing (
Used as a guide only)
Or download the curved template in the Dada Tiffany light project.
If you have small pliers, use it, place the clip firmly where you want to bend, and slowly bend the clip into shape.
It\'s really helpful if you mark the bend before you start.
Excessive bending of the paper clip will fatigue the metal and will break.
Fortunately, this step is fast and the paper clip is cheap, so start over if it breaks this step.
Poke the LED wire off the feule from the thin end and gently pass through.
Insert the lampshade support frame and arrange it so that the LED sits well in the middle of the frame.
Hold the stem, frame and LED with a piece of tissue (Will get hot)
Spray some hot melt in the stem to fix them.
Before setting, make sure that the wires are covered at the edge of the bottom of the stem, where you can make small indents.
Trim off the excess glue and make sure you don\'t cut off the wires by mistake.
Stick the stem to the base of the coin.
I used Super Glue again here, but you can also use two parts of epoxy easily.
Separate the plug from one side and peel it off the metal plug-in.
Remove any rubber drill bit and remove the internal plastic housing of the plug.
You will most likely take the wire apart, but don\'t worry, you will re-weld the wire.
Use the chart to show you the pins that weld the red and black pins.
When you put the metal case back into the pan for assembly, re-assemble the plug using some molten material, then slide the rubber outside into the metal plug case and use super glue (
This is good and the plug rubber is perfectly glued.
Fill the plug with a little bit of hot melt to make the plug fully open.
Trim any glue squeezed out and cover any white super glue residue on the USB plug seam using a black mark.
All that\'s left to do is put the curtains down and plug them in.
The extra finishing work is to twist the wire to make it neat or twist the wire and spray it in black or brown to get a real look.
The wires are thin and look really right.
I also made a can of mini Coke because I wanted to copy the reference photo.
There is a Dada Cano project that has instructions and label printing tables that can be found in the micro tin tank project.
The light looks very beautiful and weighs a lot.
Next, I think I\'m going to make a Chinese lantern shade with thin strips of bamboo and paper towels to fit into this lamp set so I can change the lampshade when I like it, but I have to say, I think of all kinds of miniature fashionable lampshades.
Anyway, good luck and have a good time doing this little project.
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